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3 Sardinian Wines to Drink Like a Local

Kevin Peterson


The Regional Wines of FUSO21

Project FUSO21 is a collaborative effort to import regional, terroir-driven wines from Italy, connecting growers to folks “who don’t want industrial plonk for daily drinkers.” The catalogue is comprised of native varieties you’d find the locals sipping. We’re opening vermentino, monica and canonau from a small Sardinian winery called Cardedu, where the Loi family dry farms, inoculates fermentation with native yeasts, and harvests by hand. Stop by on Saturday and discover a few of Sardegna’s affordable favorites.

—Kevin Peterson

Cardedu (car-DAY-do)
Sardegna, Italy

Mountainous southeast province of Ogliastra. Native varieties Vermentino, Monica and Cannonau. Loi family uses neither herbicides nor pesticides. Traditional producer. Not interested in considering himself a natural winemaker.

Nùo Vermentino ($17)
Cornered between the Tyrrhenian Sea and a stone dwelling from the Bronze Age. Sandy decomposed granite soil. Hand-harvested. 8-year vines, eastern exposure. Stainless steel fermentation, 6-8 hours skin contact. Aged in stainless steel.

Praja Monica ($17)
Monica is an indigenous grape from Sardegna (possibly of Spanish orgins). Praja is the Sardinian word for beach. Sandy loam soil. Hand-harvested. 10-year vines. Native yeasts. Fermentation: 10 days in stainless steel. Undergoes malo-lactic fermentation. Unfiltered. Aged in stainless steel and concrete tanks.

Caladu Canonau ($17)
Cannonau is indigenous to Sardegna (also possibly of Spanish origins). Caladu is the Sardinian word for sunset. 15-year vines. Hand-harvested. Native yeasts. Fermentation: 11 days in stainless steel. Undergoes malo-lactic. Élevage starts in stainless steel and concrete and finishes in botti grandi (500L barrels, typically of Slovenian Oak).