It’s cool that natural wine is trending. The trend suits our store, which specializes in small, family-owned wineries that produce with little intervention.Read More
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Cabernet franc is an orphan grape, and although it's made a home in the Loire Valley of France, its nature is to roam free. With wineries like Broc Cellars and Division Winemaking Company producing juicy, vegetal renditions of cab franc, with a foot in the States and the other in France, it's evident that the adventurous grape has taken a liking to the new world.Read More
La Bégou’s tenacity renders the wine age-worthy. This bottle is drinking wonderfully right now but, like all great wines, it contains the capacity for change. This is where cellaring is fun and intriguing for me. How will its taut, cooling texture evolve over the years?Read More
Those terrific tectonic movements that cause volcanoes to erupt are also responsible for producing fertile grape-growing conditions. Volcanic soils are hot right now. And it would behoove you to pay attention to the vines they’re nurturing.Read More
Nothing new under the sun, so says the ancient wisdom. But is re-discovery any less novel? Enter petillant naturel, or pét-nat, the lightly fizzy style of natural wine that has day drinkers refreshing glass after glass.Read More
Savio Soares made a name for himself as a wine director in top New York restaurants, working for chefs like Daniel Boulud and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. In 2002 he moved to Germany with his wife and newborn son, at which point he started importing wine to the U.S. and commuting between continents. Now, after a decade in business, he is one of the most respected purveyors of small-production wine in the States.Read More
"Beside a plate of shrimps, oysters, or mussels, it becomes one of gastronomy's most convincing clichés."
Cliché because when we think of Muscadet we think most often of the cuisine it evokes, the taste of shellfish on a sanguine afternoon. Saline, calcium, fresh air. Convincing because, every so often, a cliché has the ability to shine through its scrim of overuse and light the way toward beauty.Read More
When I started this piece, I had a single phrase rolling around in my head — oddball Italian varietals. The word oddball seemed to apply to the quirky nature of a few of recent arrivals, and emphasize them as distinctly not run of the mill.
Then I started reading into them, and I realized my mistake.Read More
I love these people, all of them, I love watching them and listening to them do their work. They are in their element, fluid in their transactions. I admire them. I just don't want to be in the middle of them. I'm much more comfortable off to the side.Read More
Touraine Gamay is widely dismissed as light, fruity, or superficial. At best, one might hear them referred to as charming. In a general sense, compared to cru Beaujolais, there is truth to the reputation. But in particular? There are wines of serious swagger being made here—wines well worth my attention and yours.Read More