"Beside a plate of shrimps, oysters, or mussels, it becomes one of gastronomy's most convincing clichés."
Cliché because when we think of Muscadet we think most often of the cuisine it evokes, the taste of shellfish on a sanguine afternoon. Saline, calcium, fresh air. Convincing because, every so often, a cliché has the ability to shine through its scrim of overuse and light the way toward beauty.
Champagne has too long been a precious commodity only accessible to the elite. What's happening to change that? People like Dominique Moreau are bucking every major trend from the last century, shifting the focus from the general to the specific. Never mind luxury, today's Champagnes elevate dirt to its rightful place.
In the 1980s, Beaujolais turned sharply from its sad-clown past and broke toward a clear-eyed vision of the future. Four young winemakers, under the influence of a radical vigneron named Jules Chauvet, heeded lessons in the tending of vines that shirked prevailing convention—which emphasized maximal yields and cheap forgettable juice—for something far more traditional, and powerful.