Alex Gysler abruptly assumed control of his family's Rheinhessen estate after the untimely death of his father, Gernot. Gernot liked and was known for softer, gentler wines, but his intrepid heir sought to differentiate himself from the start, as the heirs of strong fathers often do. Young Alex was determined to make wines of a nervy, edgy character. The heir envisioned a more pure expression of his land, his father's land, and being a man of his time, he turned to biodynamic agriculture for understanding.
Objectively, the first few years were little more than a curiosity. His most devoted supporters described the wines as "exotic," the way you might comment on a friend's experimental music as "interesting" or the way you smile when a cute stranger makes a particularly flaccid joke. "Ha. That's funny," you might say, knowing something special lay below the surface but not yet knowing how to mine such a precious thing.
Fast forward to the present where we're laughing in earnest about that awkward beginning, about the painful shyness of those first few encounters. Here we are reveling in the pure drinkability of Alex's wines.
This from Gysler's US importer (and kooky wine legend) Terry Theise:
Less recherché than ‘10, less exotic than ‘08, a simple drink-the-living-fuck-out-of-it quality... It goes to the party but is a little diffident, it hardly knows anyone, but when it sees you it bursts into an incandescent grin.
You may not have a lot of experience with the grapes Silvaner (Savagnin x Österreichisch) or Scheurebe (Silvaner x Riesling), but you honestly don't need it to enjoy these sensational, hand-crafted wines. They're simply made and yet almost ghastly in their elusiveness. Just a bit of residual sugars add to the complexity and couch the hard edges of the wines acids, creating one of the most refreshing wines you'll taste all year.
Gysler Scheurebe 2011 (1L) — $18 Gysler Silvaner 2011 (1L) — $18